Friday, 27 March 2009

• My Experience at the Communal Baths or The Onsen (温泉)

  The Onsen (温泉) or hot springs is a term typically used by the Japanese to refer to communal baths. Yes, communal bath, not swimming pool. The main purpose for going there is to bathe naked in a hot tub with a bunch of strangers!
  
  I had my first Onsen experience when I was in Tokyo two weeks ago. I loved it! I wish I had a camera and took pictures and videos for you, but I think it would have caused some problems for my friend who lives there. Maybe next time, I'll sneak one in. (Don't tell him!)
  
  Let me share with you my experience (illustrated with some pictures from the internet).
  
  First, we deposited our shoes in tiny little shoe lockers (US$1, refundable), and then entered into the premises, which cost about US$16 per person.
  
  Then, we went up into the men's area.
  
  Once you enter in, you strip down naked (like everyone around you), put your clothes in a locker (US$1, refundable), take a small towel, and enter into the sit-down shower area. This is where you actually clean off your body.
  
  

  

   
  
  

  I think this was the first time I've ever had a shower sitting down. It worked well, although it was a little tricky to wash the butt because you have to squat up and stick the nozzle under without being too obvious about it... okay, TMI.
  
  After cleaning up, you go into the bath and soak, and soak, and soak. If you have a friend there, you soak and talk, and soak and talk...
  
  Where we were, there were temperature gauges indicating the how hot the water was. Typically, they like it at 41 ̊ C (about 106 ̊ F). Here's a picture of what an indoor bath looks like.
  
  

  

  The one we went to had more tiles than wood. And there were several different tubs. Some of them had jets, some were a little cooler, some were shaped so that you can lean back easily. My friend invited me to sit in an area that had electric current (!) passing through the bottom. Getting shocked in your loins while you're naked in a bath with 10 other men is not exactly a pleasant experience. I wouldn't recommend it.
  
  We also had outdoor tubs. The temperature outside was cool, so it was perfect to bathe outdoors.
  
  

  

  My friend loves to chat, so he starts conversations with people. Being a gaijin (white person, foreigner), he easily attracts attention when he speaks in fluent Japanese. As for me, I had to keep shaking my head saying "nihongo wakarimasen" ("I don't understand Japanese"). The locals usually gave me some look which I interpreted as disapproval over my looking Japanese but not speaking it. Hello, me Chink. No Japanese. *Deep bow.*
  
  As an Asian Chinese, I find it embarrassing to be nude in public. I think some Americans feel the same way. But at the Onsen, nudity is completely natural. There is not the slightest hint of shame or sexual taboo. People of all shapes, sizes, and ages, walk about and soak in baths naked like one big happy family. Just like the picture below. For me and my friend, it was a truly brotherly-bonding experience, Japanese style.
  
  

  

  After the bath, you dry up (perhaps rinse off first), put on your clothes, and then you can go for a Shiatsu massage, which we did. Fully clothed now, we asked for male masseuses as we both preferred heavier, stronger massages.
  
  

  

  My masseuse asked "Hard?" I said "Yes." Ouch! Then I said, "Less! Less!" But I think he didn't understand me. Thank God for my Japanese-speaking friend who came to the rescue.
  
  There is often a cafeteria at the Onsen where you can eat or have a light snack. It's a great way to continue to slow pace of being with friends and family. I ate some fishy-rice thing. My friend had edamame beans, the boiled baby soybeans in a pod, which you can see in the picture below.
  
  

  

  Where we were, the eatery was right next to an open space with tatami (mat) flooring where people lied down to rest. I stopped for a minute and enjoyed myself looking at a little girl napping and drooling, and an elderly man reading a magazine.
  
  

  

  Have you been to a communal bath? Would you consider going?
  
  

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